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LONG ISLAND MODEL SOLDIERS - LIHMCS
MODELERS HINTS AND TIPS
LONG ISLAND MODEL SOLDIERS - LIHMCS
MODELERS HINTS AND TIPS
HIGH SPEED GUNMETAL
You will need a natural hair motor tool brush such as the
one shown. They come in different sizes and shapes and
are generally sold in jewelry supply businesses. They can
cost about $15.00 to $30.00. You will also need Floquil
Platinum Mist, and acrylic black and blue.

After the area is primed (light gray) and completely dry with
no solvent odor (at least three days), apply one or two light
coats of platinum mist. Mix it completely. This is the only
color that will work. It has a metal appearance, but no metal
particles. Let this dry a few days until set, then make a
mixture of acrylic black (80%) and blue (20%). Apply a few
light coats. The more you apply the darker the tint. Let this
dry. Using the brush on low speed, begin polishing the
surface. High spots should receive extra polishing, but be
careful because this brush generates heat on the surface.
Exra highlights are possible by using silver oils and silver
metalic powder. Recesses can be accentuated by using
sepia extra oil paint. The model shown was only done in
acrylics, no oils were used.
WORN METAL
Some metal parts are not made from the highest quality metal
available. To simulate these or forged and cast parts, use the
same brush as shown above and brush on a light coat of black
over the primer. Lightly power brush this surface with the motor
tool. You are simply polishing a lightly blackened primer. This get
a sheen which looks like distressed metal.
LONGISLANDMODELSOLDIERS.COM
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These Hints and Tips and all photos belong to the author and the LIHMCS and cannot be reproduced or copied without permission
Submitted by Neal K. Das (Sentinel Miniatures)
Submitted by Neal K. Das (Sentinel Miniatures)
03-21-11
03-21-11
CREATING HORSE TAILS AND MANES USING COTTON THREAD
by Greg DiFranco
What you will need:
Six Strand Embroidery Floss (Article #117), made with 100% long staple
cotton from US/Embroidery - Threads (dmc-usa.com). It is available in many
colors so you can easily match one of the colors to the horse hair you'll need.

1. Start by teasing out the thread with a stiff tooth brush until it is very frayed and
straight, it can take many strokes to make it fray.

2. Collect the longer pieces in clumps for the tail, and shorter pieces for the mane.

3. Mane - carve a groove at the peak of the horses neck. Then cut a piece of wire
that fits in the groove. Use white glue to fix the cotton hair to the wire, it's amazing
how the thread and wire bind with Elmers Glue - something about the combination
of the two - it's a very strong bond. Be prepared for alot of fussing with the little
pieces of floss. I usually make the pieces of floss a little longer then needed, then
add a touch of glue on a small section of wire, then wrap a little bit of the floss
around the wire with my fingers (some of it comes off of course but if you don't
press too hard most will stay on the wire). Sometimes a flat tool helps to press
the hairs down into the glue without pulling too much hair away. It dries very
quickly. I do little sections at a time.

Once it is all done, I glue the wire into the channel and begin trimming all the stray
hairs and also fix the shaping with a scissor.

4. Tail (much easier) - drill a hole in the rear. Collect the longer pieces of floss and
group it until you have enough to look like the tail you want. Use the white glue to
glue the tip and use your fingers to make it a hard pointed end, then glue the tail
unit into the hole. Cut off the stray hairs with a small scissor.

You can manicure the hair with some linseed oil, or even some oil paint, but
DON'T use acrylics as they will bind the hairs together.
It's a bit frustrating, but I think the results are well worth it.
Greg

Submitted by Greg DiFranco - October 29, 2011
YOUR BRUSHES.....
Brushes whether expensive or inexpensive must be in good condition for you to paint successfully, they must retain
their points and not fan out. After painting don't just use water or thinner to clean them. After this is done, let them
soak in a brush cleaner. There is an inxepensive one made by Plaid by the name of Brush Plus, found in art stores
and craft stores, good for cleaning oils and acrylics. If the paint is allowed to build up under the ferrules or the binding
the brush will have a very short life. Water or thinner do not remove all this paint.
After the brush is clean, roll the excess liquid out, roll the tip to a point, and it will stay that way. Don't jab it or push it
into the ferrules. The best paper napkins to use are the ones you would obtain from food service, e.g. Starbucks or
coffee shops. They hold liquid and their fibers don't fray and they roll a tip easily.

Submitted by Neal K. Das (Sentinel Miniatures)
10-29-11